The edge of the glareshield is rather sharp so most put something there in case you bang your head on it during an accident. Not sure there will be a huge difference but it seems like...
Taped, cleaned, and primed, ready for the windscreen. Windscreen taped and primed. Installed with the Sikaflex UV 295 glue that I also used many years ago on the canopy. I really recommend more light - I thought it...
This baby cost me about 20 USD so I don't want it to fall off! ...
If you are not using hemostats to help you install adel clamps (a.k.a. Cushion clamps) you are missing a nice trick. Works great! ...
Some photos of my skybolt fasteners. ...
I needed to add a spacer to the pressure sensor manifold to make space for the barksdale NO/NC pressure switch. I also took a picture of my pressure test rig. I used this to set the...
Ignore the exhaust pipe hangars - it was a test and I ended up doing it exactly the way Larry Vetterman recommends in the instructions. Very simple task but made a bit more complex with the...
Much easier than I expected. Only issue is that the AN3-42A bolts are too long and I need to order some -40 bolts. Notice that I set the cooler back a bit and greatly strengthened the...
Beautiful radio, updated, totally new, never installed, with pre-wired tray. $1125 shipped in the US. ...
I bought some camloc fasteners from skybolt for the connection between the cowl and the firewall. Turned out fine and was really easy to install. ...
Ready to go - hope I have not missed something important. ...
Some pics of the air filter install. ...
This is an idea that I have seen on many other RVs. The hinge pin openings are kind of narly so generally people find a way to cover them. Here is what I did. ...
Paul gave me a very useful tip to fix a stubborn cowl hinge pin. Just flatten one end of a spare pin, grind it a little bit, and use a drill to ream it. Worked perfectly- now...
The instructions are pretty clear - keep a 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the upper edge of the baffles and the inside surface of the top cowl. I have that everywhere but it just seems too...
Installed the b-lead to the alternator. I decided to use the Littelfuse midi fuse inline older, with an 80amp fuse. The are much smaller, lighter, and don't require me to drill another hole in the firewall....
Now that the snorkel is almost done, let's see if we can finish up the lower cowl cutouts. (These photos are in reverse order.) Cowl bump is glued on and I've added a couple of layers around...
Added this ground point on the firewall. A bit of overkill but I think it is pretty clean, and allowed me to use the braided straps and attach them to the engine case. Note...
Installed the giant starter wire. It's a fat wire from Eric M. Jones's Perihelion Design http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm (Super-2-CCA, AWG#2) so it should flow plenty of electrons. It's about 42" long, and supported in 5 places including the ends,...
Vetterman recommended installing the probes between 1.5" and 2.0" below the cylinder port. Others say it doesn't matter much as long as they are about the same distance from the exhaust port flange so the...
The standard alternator pulley is 3" and I wanted to change it for a 4" to slow it down a bit and to move it up a bit in the cowl. Bought one from Summit Racing. All...
I have some CHT probes from MGL and I'm curious if there are supposed to be little washers or gaskets at the point where the probe is welded to the hose clamp. Will check on VAF...
I'm finally actually riveting the baffles. It's a real pleasure. I'm using the silicone baffle seal material I bought from spruce. I read that it is better than the standard material shipped with the kit. After...
The rear of the baffle requires some support and the plans suggest a bracket from the front side to support the baffles. This looks fine until you are ready to install the baffle seals. The...