Tools needed to build a RV tail kit

13 Sep 2004 Tools needed to build a RV tail kit

Mike posted this on the Matronics RV-List. A good note. I worked with Mike to build my tail at the Alexander Technical Center – he is a good guy.

–> RV-List message posted by: “Michael D Crowe”

To introduce myself first I am an A&P mechanic with an IA. I work as a Lead
Mechanic for a major air line. For the past two years I have worked part
time at the Alexander Technical Center at Griffin GA. as an instructor on
their quick start tail assembly program. http://www.buildtofly.com/

I have been involved in over 100 tail kits. I have worked on the 6,7,8,9 and
10 kits; I am also building a RV8A myself.

As each class begins I ask if the student have already purchased their
tools. My hopes are that they have not as we have a good selection of tools
to try from the different manufacturers. The ones that have gotten their
tools before coming often say I wish I had gotten this tool or that tool
instead. In the following I will try to give you a list and suggestions of
tools that I have learned over the past two years. Please keep in mind that
this information is my opinion and mine alone. Others may agree or disagree.

There are two major suppliers of tools for the RV tail kits that I recommend
Avery http://www.averytools.com/ and Cleaveland
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp both are RV builders and
are good and honest people to do business with.

I would buy a tool kit from Avery or Cleaveland to begin with. Both will
allow you to add or subtract the tools you want to the kit. I will use both
their 2004 catalogs as a guide.

First if you buy Cleaveland’s kit I would buy their complete airframe tool
package p/n Comp-Kit 04.

I would subtract from the kit:

BBRP-48 Back Riveting Plate-It is a nice plate but too small in my opinion

CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool-More about C-Frames later but if you get this
one also order their C-From Table Kit CTF-48

ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator- I have found the round knob regulator is hard
to regulate

I would add to the kit:

I would upgrade to the 3X Rivet gun- The 2x works good on the 3/32 rivet but
not well on the 1/8 rivet. Get a 3x to work well on the 1/8 and turn down
the pressure a little to do the 3/32 or better yet buy one of each.

DP-8 Drive Pin Punches- This is a nice punch set you could get by with only
the 3/32 and 1/8 (you will be removing a few bad rivets)

LBL-13 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.

3MW-77S6 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need
both. Go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and get a grinder and install these wheels.

3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty

DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights

SNYT-45 4in THIN NOSE YOKE- You are going to need a thin nose and a 4in nose
get them both in one.

SNYF-35 2.5in FLANGE NOSE YOKE- There is places where nothing else is going
to reach.

RSMS-75 SWIVEL FLUSH SET WITH RUBBER GUARD-You must cut some of the rubber
down or you rivets will set too high

CLP-20 CLEKO PLIERS-One is not enough.

CLC-50 1/2in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10

CLC-100 1in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10

For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.

For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.

The RV10 will also need BBRV10 SPECIAL BUCKING BAR-You will need this for
the elevators.

I would buy from Avery to complete the kit from Cleaveland

575 hand seamer 3-1/2 jaw-I use this to squeezing the trailing edge of the
trim tabs.

550 3/32 vise grip dimplers- several places on ribs this is needed.

150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR-This one is easier to adjust.

1046 SPEED DEBURRING AND COUNTERSINKING TOOL

23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins

For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.

If you buy an Avery tool kit, I would buy the RV-3,-4-6-7-8-9and -10
builders tool kit.

I would subtract from the kit

1001 22in hand rivet and dimpling tool-it is there c-frame tool a good tool
but see below about a c-frame tool

10765 POLYETHYLENE DIMPLING MALLET-Goes with the c-frame tool. If you get
the c-frame tool get the mallet.

500 FLUTING PLIERS- You need a pair of fluting pliers I like Cleaveland’s a
lot better.

1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL- I can not get this tool to work for me. It could
just be me.

3507 3M RIVETING TAPE-Works well. If you use it take it off after use it is
real hard to get off later. Use Scotch Removable Magic Tape works as well
and much cheaper.

9885 ANGLE DRILL KIT- Nice kit not needed for the tail kit could be used
later.

1054 NBR 8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER-Not needed for the tail kit.

25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL-If you must use a hand pop tool use
Cleaveland’s PRS-20 it is much easier to squeeze.

I would add to the kit:

7760 4in NO HOLE YOKE

7755 LONGERON YOKE

811 RIVETING TAPE-Scotch removable magic tape.

1003 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.

200 CLECO PLIERS-One is not enough.

1661 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need both.
Go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and get a grinder and install these wheels.

23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins.

For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.

For the RV10 630 RV10 ELEVATOR BUCKING BAR

I would by from Cleaveland to complete the Avery kit:.

3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty

DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights

EF-60 EDGE FORMER-Needed at seams

HS-30 OFFSET HAND SEAMER-Used many places

FP-200 FLUTING PLIERS-Used to straighten ribs

For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.

For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.

Tools that would be nice to have:

PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER- In my opinion a must have. Get a 214 style. Make sure to
get an adjustable set holder for it.

PNEUMATIC POP RIVET GUN-Go to harbor freight or such and get one for around
$40.00

LIGHTWEIGHT HOSE KITS-Makes it a lot easier to handle drills and rivet guns

TATCO HAND SQUEEZER WITH 2in YOKE-Makes it a lot easier to dimple all those
ribs

C-FRAME DIMPLER

EXPERIMENTAL AERO http://www.experimentalaero.com/ I brought a DRDT-1
dimplier and installed it at Alexander Technical Center to try it out in
January this year.

Boy was that a mistake. There is no way I am getting it back. It is the
best I have used for dimpling. It gives best dimples; it is consistent,
quiet and a one man operation.

There is no way I am going back to the old c-frame hammer method. Now if I
need to dimple I pack up what I have and drive 32 miles even though I have a
hammer c-

Frame dimplier at home. It is that much better. They now sell the DRDT-2
which has some improvement over the -1.

Mike Crowe
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